April 18, 2011
Where does the brand originate from or since when does it exist?
The Debut capsule range was first presented to private clients prior to RAFW (Rosemount Australian Fashion week) invitation in the NEW Generation 09′ category which marked the official launch, the collection was aptly titled “Debut” inspired by Artist Henry Fruseli and Yohji Yamamoto- I also found myself listening to alot of Bjork from her “Debut album in particular a track called- Come to me, which we end up using a strings quartet version for the Debut showing”. If I was to go back to the beginning Initial ideas of LAB began as a hobby in 2008 while I was studying Fashion Design at TAFE college for my graduating range. (Here is the clip for our RAFW debut http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEXauFC73WQ)
What’s the brand identity and/or brand philosophy?
“I wanted to bring the great cut of European suits combined with the inventiveness of the Japanese styling a little closer to home, always with nod to Art, it’s very important that you feel the clothes and fabric. The label follows a gently evolutionary process of what I think could be an interesting next step. I see designers/stylist like story tellers where we present the question and leave it up to the viewer or end user to decide on the answer.
What’s LAB’s signature? How can we always recognise a specific LAB design?
A languid paradox of contradictions forms the dialogue always reflecting on oneself, can be seen throughout my work. With the strong use of tones on tones colourway and gradiation elements becoming signature for the label.
Where does the typical LAB design/style come from? Who or what inspires your design(er)s?
LAB evokes a sense of uniformity with a modern classic approach to simple design elements, Often the focus is not on what is added but instead what is left out – not overdesigning. This becomes challenging when you are required the re-invent classics that are perfect, which is why they become classic pieces. So what do you do I often ask myself, remove a button or add a design line and I begin to reduce the elements right down to the base to build it again. White, grey and black form the basic palette where shots of colour are included for interest. The minimalistic approach can be described as a play on young YSL meets Yohji Yamamoto for Y3. To understand the LAB man / woman is to see detailing that is subtle, yet strong, different yet same and familiar yet unexpected.
How and where is the LAB collection made and what kind of materials do you use?
I specialise in natural fibres ranging from wools, Australian and New Zealand and Italian, To silks and a variety cottons/modals/bamboos from Australia, Japan and Asia, some organic fabrics where possible while exploring the amazing qualities coming out of the most exotic and destination places eg Istanbul, and remote villages of India. If we fail to find, the right composition on the market we will sometime have the mills weave my fabrics from yarns in the case of my signature superfine LAB tees, the fabric exclusively woven for the brand. Im very fond of fabric selection with subversive meaning. Traditional suiting clothes I may use on casual piece, Womenswear fabrics like silk mix for traditional Mens take on LAB coats, trenches and macs, I often reverse fabrics with aim to use them in a modern way. Technical fabrics, wools and leathers are my latest obsession – I play with the reverse approach to design and begin by sourcing fabrics first before the design process begins with months of research on the inspiration or storyline. All LAB Homme and LAB | Sud du est collections are made in entirety in Australia by tailors with over 35 years’ experience to bring the sketches to life.
Which men are you aiming at with the LAB collections?
The man who is comfortable in his own skin, the saying goes its clothes that maketh the man, but I will add that character to me is equally important. When you feel good you look great, it almost becomes irrelevant what you then wear as the quiet confidence is what projects. Im kind of selfish to a point when I design, it’s really to please an audience of one – myself, so to find the voice for the label by presenting what I think is an interesting storyline and have other people appreciate it is already a blessing.
How do you expect your brand and its collections to develop in the future?
Thru collaborations with many of the creative minds I’ve have the pleasure to cross paths and continually meet. Explore the ideals of demi-couture with respect for heritage always.
What are the themes and where did the inspiration come from for LAB’s AW 2011 collection? LAB H O M M E AW11′ range is titled – “In the mood for” inspired by the film In the mood for love by director Wong Kar Wai. I became very intrigue by the definitions of relationships, which was the storyline for the mood/movie. The AW11 range takes you on a journey to rediscover the intimate living of Hong Kong in the late 50′s with European undertones. Stories of secrets, affairs and matters of the heart lends as reference.
Jackets with very traditional feel were formed almost conforming to the latest Mad Men craze, while indirect reference to Chineroiserie necklines and styling added to strengthen the theme. I always play on elements that are not too literal so I was mindful to keep Mao collared jackets and Cheong sams to a minimum while enhancing the early british colony influence in the architechture in HK to become the direction for the styling, Trench coats, Cardigans, Oxford shirts and jackets teamed with very polished hair and shoes, referencing to the film. Colourways was leaning towards a cream and yellow as highlight, with alot of old world looking but new world handle fabrics selected to convey the period. The final product was realised thru a collaboratory lookbook with Australian photographer and favourite amoung the Fashion set- Mr James Demitri with a location Ive been wanting to shoot for past 2 years but this season it almost was too fitting – which is located in the back streets of Sydney’s chinatown. The mood for the shoot that was muted and almost like when one recalls memories – the visual impact is filtered and desaturated. The results are what we presented in our Paris debut launch late January @ Tranoi.
And what’s your opinion on today’s menswear?
Men’s fashion is often very slight with changes. But great quality with fabric and construction makes all the difference and always finds a place in our lifestyle. At LAB we push the boundaries slightly to suggest something familiar but unexpected in approach and believe there will always be an appreciation for modern take on the classics.
A play on curious mind can have beautiful effect. Chris Cheng
Thankyou so much for your interest and support in LAB. Im truly humbling to receive positive feedback from a market I have much respect and admiration for.
Lookbook Images credited to photographer – James Demitri Creative Direction – Chris Cheng
