AUTUMN / WINTER 2008-09 COLLECTION
All in One, but like No-One
There is a special system when seeking out new trends that involves not following but instead setting them,
combining ideas and delving into the past to find sources of inspiration in order to achieve a wholly personal
and absolutely original vision of contemporary dressing. A perception of fashion which has no fear of comparison
as it is aware of its uniqueness and instead of brazen display opts to stand apart with a controlled and intelligent
sense of style.
Womenswear looks to the world of country yet without its connotations and is reworked in a contemporary style.
This is a version suitable for urban women who nevertheless like folk touches for a more romantic look.
The right degree of naif and their own take on Bohemian. The style is made up of juxtaposed contrasts - fabric patchworks,
coarse knits and light draping. The seventies as a golden age for inspiration, the source of some plant-themed prints,
richly developed yet stylised. A magnificent confusion of styles, just like the hippie era. Art deco, the Bauhaus graphic
experiments, jazz style - a whole range of themes reworked during the seventies and reintroduced here with creativity.
Offshoots from the world of lingerie define the appearance of the very fine and sensual jerseys, coordinated with soft
and alluring cable knits. The handcrafted leather is also metallic; inlaid and washed, it is reminiscent of American
Indian costumes. Western and Sioux touches also in the details of some of the luxe jeans or leather ruffle trims imitating
certain Florentine craft products. Jeans have apparently tired of hugging figures and allow themselves a degree of softness.
Waists are raised generally according to modern standards. Legs can be straight, bootcut, boyfit or flared, vaguely
flower power, while retaining a definitely contemporary look. Trousers again, designed with an eye to the great American
West, work clothes transformed into pret-a-porter.
The men's wardrobe takes a firm look at the past to regain a specific and well-defined look. Late nineteenth,
early twentieth century for period activewear with heroic undertones. This is the world of sportsmen engaged in the first
competitive rugby or soccer matches. Identical uniforms remodelled almost compulsively to give added personality to their
wearers. For winter too a many-sided collection of shirts. Restyled traditional button-down models with unique details
according to the craft theory. Contrast buttonholes and stays with all-different buttons. Non-matching bibs and
deliberately non-colour-coordinated details. Also decidedly British, for well-brought-up schoolboys concentrating on
their look. Otherwise the model is that of a chic lumberjack, in the outerwear patterns with inlaid checks and brands
with micro prints. The same goes for short jackets and pea coats which reference a nineteenth-century uniform, stripped
of useless trimmings for a new minimalism of form. For the more nocturnal part of the collection dark shirts with
decorations and embroidery with a metallic effect. Decidedly rock & roll t-shirts with theme prints for forays in London
clubs from dusk onwards or used again during the day for a more respectable look. Jeans return to their traditional
vintage style with the current trend demanding that they are subjected again to numerous washes, giving them an artfully
lived-in appearance.
