Spring/Summer 2009 Women's and Men's Collection
Leitmotifs
All about shapes, colours and decors, they give uniformity to a collection rich in different yet
complementary influences and ideas, also give substance to the varied, multifaceted and never parforthecourse
soul of the GF FERRE' world. Proportions range easily from slim to regular to full, with a lengthening of
lines (particularly in the tops) that puts a sexy slant on the silhouette. For men too. While there are many
hues, the makeup and mauve tones form an unusual leitmotif running through the entire collection, very much
in colour block mode. As for decors, one represents no less than a fetish, a symbol, a clear reference to
a style message at once timeless, today, futuristic even: it’s the metal pin designed by Gianfranco Ferre'
in the early '80s, which after revisitation resurfaces now on jackets, shirts, blouses and bags.
Themes
A fresh take on tailoring. Prince of wales, fine houndstooth checks and micro designs create medleys just
about everywhere: on peajackets and little trench coats, on blazers and bombers, on vests and wideleg pants
vaguely a la Charlie Chaplin. For women satin and crepe dresses are wonderfully fluid, in some cases with
sleeves knotting surprisingly at waist. By contrast, the blazer with standup or double collar may relinquish
sleeves totally while the trench coat makes do without a collar. Sleeves reappear quite emphatically then on
the embroidered blouse. Superlight silk knits – extra long or extra short may border on a shirt and come
complete with a plastron. The most interesting dresses have flounces, otherwise chain stitch edging. Along
with the season’s leitmotif hues, there are summer white, white&black, mastic, plus purple, bordeaux, red
and orange intermingling in the digital dawn/sunset prints. For men signature patterns return on the scene,
with a preponderance of stripes in endless variations on the theme: narrow, crosswise, color-contrast. Even
the safari jacket has pinstripes, while both jerseys and jacquards make a tone-on-tone statement on the
subject. Houndstooth check shirts always have gold buttons, white shirts lose all stiffness in favor of a
drawstring waist. Shirt-sweaters with plastron return this season too, alternating with the handknit pullovers.
White jeans feature a sideband in classic tuxedo style.
A soft idea of washed. For women the prince of wales suit is crumpled and faux sunfaded. And since fabrics
(cotton, gauze shirting, washed ottoman, nylon, shiny/mat jacquards, jersey/chiffon mixes) are invariably
soft&easy, the same goes for the shapes of dresses, blouses, tops, shorts and skirts – in opposition, however,
to the slim jackets and lean pants. Sweaters as well key into a contrast theme, in the form of superfine
jerseys and thick handknits. Sweet&sexy dresses, yet also tops and blouses, are in finely ruched chiffon.
For men the same principles hold, with some stronger notes of color standing out on the natural tones.
Shirt and pants feature a pajama-type cotton, while the richest shirt this season may be in chambray. The
blouson is in ultra pale nappa leather, jeans in perfectly quiet blue, white and mastic hues. Dawn/sunset
prints also mark nylon coats&jackets.
A hint of military mood. An army flair comes through in the zips, patch pockets and uniformlike structures of
canvas or treated cotton jackets. But there are also other influences. For women the safari jacket and shorts
are in superfluid washed silk, the cool little bolero in avion blue micro ottoman. Dresses are beautifully
bodyskimming in crepe de chine and in jersey, with the long ones having chain stitch embroidery in back.
Colors go from purple to intense orange to delicate pink. For men micro-ottoman is the material of choice for
nearly all genres: army jacket, blazer, pants, shorts, jumpsuit, safari jacket. Then rounding out the options
are the nylon parkas in two different lengths and the blouson in mock-croc suede. Just for fun, items in
divingsuit neoprene with playful chromatic trompel'oeil effects gray, mauve, dark blue make no distinction
between genders.
Accessories
Women's. Ultra high heels, striking material mixes (as in python and alligator) and intersecting straps
define shoes clearly strong in appeal, also as to palette: wine red, fuchsia, mauve, natural tones too.
Material mixes python alligator plus satin equally impact handbags, from the small slim model with
long chain strap to the shoulder-bag. Not rarely, a metal pin 'by Gianfranco Ferre' shows up on the front.
Men's. Different materials identify the different models: the ankle boot is in treated suede, the laceup
desert boot in python, a more classic shoe in topstitched calf and in rawhide. Capacious and practical,
the messenger bags come in shoulder and hand versions. Main colors are wine red and army green.
